Every surfer will tell you that surfing is not just a sport, it is a way of life.
I entirely agree; some of the things I learnt surfing are also totally applicable to life outside of the water.
Here are some of these nuggets:
- Never turn your back to the ocean: Observe what’s in front of you. The good, the bad, the ugly, face it and embrace it.
- Surf in every condition:
There is only one way to improve. Practice and practice again.
- Eddie would go:
You might not always have a good session but you will never regret getting in the water. Don’t hold back, go for it!
- Respect priorities:
Learn the rules of the game and when it’s your turn to play, don’t let anyone steal your opportunity!
- Be humble:
The ocean will always be more powerful than you. Don’t let it remind you, it hurts – a lot.
- The winner is the one having the most fun:
It doesn’t matter how well you ride, how man waves you catch, how radical (or not) your maneuvers may be as long as you are having fun you are doing it right!
And finally, last but not least,
- Keep our oceans clean:
There is no metaphor in this one. The ocean is not only the playground of surfer, the ocean is life. We must protect it.